114: Side Story – Making Acrylic Keychains with Shrink Plastic / Production Log
Brief Notes
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This side story is similar to an activity report or afterword. While it documents the creation of items using character illustrations, the characters themselves don’t appear.
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Because this uses photographs, it’s not intended for formats that don’t support images, such as vertical-writing PDFs.
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In that case, please imagine the photos based on the context of the writing.
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This time, it’s very peaceful and not at all crazy.
Hello, I’m Mizuki Aoi, and this is my production log.
Today, I’m making acrylic keychains with shrink plastic.
Nothing unusual… it’s a pretty common craft.
My budget is 100 yen.
As is tradition for these production logs, I only count the cost of materials purchased specifically for the project… so that’s just one sheet of shrink plastic from the 100-yen shop.
While I used several markers and pens, I already had them, and they didn’t get used up, so they’re not included in the budget.
It is a low-budget project… but that’s typical for shrink plastic crafts, so it’s not… insanely low-budget.
The process is: draw an illustration, print it, trace the lines onto the shrink plastic, color it, bake it in a toaster oven, and then shrink it.
The techniques and materials are so ordinary it’s almost unsettling.
Probably because of my usual antics.
Deciding What to Make
What and how do I want to make it?
…That’s an important question.
You can basically make two things with shrink plastic: keychains and stands.
If it has a metal fitting, it’s a keychain. If it can stand up on its own, it’s a stand.
While I considered both, I decided on acrylic keychains, as I wanted to make chibi characters, and keychains were more compact and suitable.
They’re also sometimes called acrylic charms or acrylic figures.
My goal this time was quite clear and ordinary: “to make acrylic keychains related to my novel on a low budget using shrink plastic.”
The planning and execution should be straightforward.
I’ll call them “keychains” from now on.
First, I draw the illustrations.
I decided on chibi characters.
Of course, you can draw whatever you like…
…but I recommend avoiding illustrations with too many lines.
Fine details get lost when shrunk, so chibi characters are convenient.
I’ve learned to sense when a design is too complex. Character development!
Though I don’t always avoid them. (I did today)
The image size is A4.
I do my best.
How you cut the shrink plastic is up to you, but it doesn’t always shrink evenly, so it’s best to cut along a simple outline… unless you want to suffer.
I don’t want to suffer, so I’ll be sensible this time. Really.
Once I’m satisfied with the cuteness, I convert it to line art.
Adjusting the size, cleaning up the lines.
The important part is to ‘reverse’ the image.
Since I’ll be drawing the lines and coloring on the back, I want the image to be the right way around when viewed from the front.
You can also draw the lines on the front and color only the back, in which case you don’t need to reverse the image.
It’s a matter of preference.
You can also start with just the line art.
But coloring it first helps you decide how much to simplify the colors, so it’s an important step.
Or maybe it’s just for fun.
Skipping ahead a bit, the black lines were too thick and difficult to trace with a black marker, so I reduced the opacity to about 30% and recreated the data.
…Perhaps I should have made it a little darker?
The hair highlights are also darkened for reference.
Then, I print it on A4 copy paper.
Some people say their art looks worse when printed, others say it looks better. Mine looks better…
They’re… quite cute.
…Come to think of it, I’ve never printed a regular illustration… (I usually only print single-color blueprints with minimal lines for crafting).
I’d like to try printing a regular illustration someday, but for now, I’ll check these.
…Printing reveals some flaws. And since the image is reversed, they’re even more noticeable.
I could fix them and reprint, but… that’s a rabbit hole I don’t want to go down.
Even if the data were perfect, the next step is freehand.
Preparing the Shrink Plastic
Regular shrink plastic for crafts. The ‘real deal.’
…I have a stash of non-shrink plastic that I’m planning to use for something someday.
But those are product packages and such… not meant to be shrunk.
My low-budget crafting is fueled by cardstock, cardboard boxes, packing materials, wooden fish cake boards… I have to declutter regularly, as it keeps piling up.
This shrink plastic is B4 size.
……………
…………
…
Huh?
I printed on A4, didn’t I?
Right.
This shrink plastic is also part of my ‘stash.’
I actually have several projects in progress…
And sometimes, I abandon projects even after buying the materials.
While the plans are discarded, the materials are, of course, added to my stash. (They’re only counted towards the project budget when they’re actually used)
I have no memory of when or how I intended to use this shrink plastic…
I even bought it…? Is my brain okay…?
Probably too many abandoned projects.
Well, bigger is better…
Thinking positively, it gives me ‘more room for error.’
In fact, I should embrace mistakes.
All projects exist to gain knowledge, and failure is simply a means of gathering information.
However, since every project, successful or not, depletes my budget, there’s a limit to how many times I can fail…
Preparation
First, I roughly trace the outer lines with a thick permanent marker.
I draw slightly outside the lines.
This is so that the marker lines won’t be visible after cutting.
You can also adjust the original data.
Then, I sand the surface with sandpaper.
I’m using 2000 grit.
You can use a coarser grit, but a finer grit is better for maintaining transparency.
Lightly rinsing or wiping with a damp cloth is recommended.
It’s also a good idea to test your pens on a corner.
You can skip this step if you’re not using colored pencils or water-based markers.
You can also skip this step if you’re using ‘frosted’ shrink plastic, which has a pre-sanded, matte surface.
Tracing the Lines
I’m using permanent markers.
The kind you use for writing your name. Thinner than the one I used for the outline.
It’s best to secure the printout with masking tape.
Like this.
Since I usually work digitally, and I’m not used to these analog tools, my shoulders are aching…
Technically, this is tracing, so perhaps I’m more accustomed to it than those who primarily work with analog, since I usually trace my rough sketches to create clean line art.
The marker was running out of ink, so the lines are a bit faint, which was also challenging…
Coloring
It’s easier if you have a set of permanent markers.
You can actually use a variety of materials, including colored pencils and water-based markers.
Just like with digital art, the important thing is to be mindful of the ‘layer structure.’
It’s best to draw the lines first and then fill in the colors, but for the eyes, I add the white highlights first.
One thing specific to analog is ‘drying time.’
I color different areas and wait for them to dry, or if I’m layering colors, I also wait between coats.
I mostly rely on intuition, testing as I go.
…Also known as “trial and error.”
There are a few things I’d like to fix, but this will do.
After cutting along the outer lines and making a hole with a hole punch, the preparations are complete.
Baking in the Toaster Oven
A toaster oven is the best tool for this.
I recommend one with an analog timer dial, so you can stop and open it immediately if there’s a problem.
I’m using a vintage toaster oven, officially retired from food duty and now dedicated to crafts.
It’s a trusty appliance that has served me well, from toast to baked potatoes. Still works perfectly.
I place a metal tray on the rack and then cover it with baking paper.
Baking paper.
Research is important for any project.
While I’m tempted to experiment… due to budget constraints, there’s nothing wrong with referencing existing research.
Sometimes I follow the steps exactly, sometimes I try different things.
One thing all the shrink plastic keychain tutorials I researched had in common…
…was using crumpled aluminum foil.
I made shrink plastic keychains… a long time ago.
And they were… a disaster.
Partly because the shapes were too complex, and the quality of the shrink plastic wasn’t good.
However, I now suspect the ‘crumpled aluminum foil’ was also a factor.
They said it was to prevent sticking…
…but wouldn’t baking paper work just as well…?
When using hot glue, it sticks to aluminum foil, but not to baking paper.
I haven’t done a controlled experiment with crumpled aluminum foil, so the truth remains unknown, but I’ll be using baking paper from now on.
Heating
No photos of this stage.
I tried taking some, but wearing gloves made it difficult to operate the camera, and the timing was critical. Even if I managed to take photos, the inside of the toaster oven was dark, so they didn’t turn out well…
Depending on the type of shrink plastic, it curls and bends, but don’t panic; just wait for it to flatten out. Don’t rush it.
However, if you wait too long, it might start to smoke or melt. Baking paper isn’t foolproof.
Once it’s done, I place it between two sheets of baking paper and press it flat while it cools.
I use a notebook on top of the baking paper, just to be safe.
…While heavy books are often recommended, I don’t understand the logic.
Books aren’t always perfectly flat…
I understand that weight is necessary for pressed flowers, as you leave them for a long time, but for shrink plastic, you need a quick, firm press, and heavy books are difficult to handle, so I don’t recommend them.
Ideally, you’d use two flat, heat-resistant metal plates.
But I don’t have those…
Finished!
It’s much smaller now.
Not bad… though the colors are a bit… off.
So, it’s finished.
The prototype.
…The test model.
A prototype, a test model, created using the exact same procedure as the final product.
It’s quite extravagant, so I usually do a simplified test… or, in the worst case, a simulation (in my mind).
Of course, if the prototype turns out well, it becomes the finished product.
…And I want to use this opportunity to conduct some tests that require a physical object, tests that have the potential for… damage.
“I hope this new toy doesn’t break too easily,” is something an eccentric emperor or crown prince, surrounded by exotic animals, would say.
“Let’s begin the durability test. Thank you for your cooperation,” sounds a bit mad scientist-y if you didn’t actually get their consent.
I’m definitely closer to the mad scientist.
Coating Test
So, I have a prototype, created to test the procedure.
What I need to do to make this prototype the finished product is to ‘coat the back.’
To protect the paint.
Here are the tests:
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Clear top coat #1 (fail)
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Scratch test with fingernail to check durability
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Clear top coat #2 (fail)
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Water-based varnish (conditional success)
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Transparent tape (success)
If the first top coat had worked, I would have used it…
Since it failed, I had to keep testing until I found something that worked.
The water-based varnish made the colors more vibrant and also protected the paint, so it had potential. However, perhaps because it reacted with the moisture, the colors bled slightly.
While it could be considered a stylistic choice, and it was within acceptable limits… I couldn’t test it on a larger scale or with different pens, so I decided on tape for the final test.
Transparent tape wasn’t exciting, but it was a practical, low-budget option.
Here are the other tests I wanted to try:
Since they weren’t conducted, their test numbers are all zero.
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Spray-on top coat
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Water-based varnish advertised as non-bleeding
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Resin (epoxy and UV-cured)
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White tape
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White paper with some kind of adhesive
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White spray paint
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White fabric (felt, etc.)
I didn’t test them this time due to budget constraints, other potential applications, and my desire to maintain transparency.
However, placing white paper behind the keychain made the colors more vibrant, so using white paper or tape, even if it meant sacrificing transparency, is a good option.
But if you’re going to sacrifice transparency, the advantages of using shrink plastic diminish… it’s a difficult balance.
…I considered doing a ‘intentional destruction test to determine the limits of its durability’ instead of a ‘potential for damage’ test, but I couldn’t bring myself to do it.
While I was curious about the durability limits of shrink plastic keychains… it didn’t seem like very useful information…
The shapes varied, and it would be difficult to measure…
Official Version: Leticia
Now that the procedure was finalized, I started with Leticia.
The image for Leticia’s pose is bright and cheerful.
My line art might have improved slightly after the prototype.
…But it’s probably because I found a different pen that didn’t run out of ink.
Since I use different pens for different colors, it’s always a bit of a trial and error.
However, it’s easier when you have a consistent color palette and are familiar with the characteristics of the pens.
Heating it up.
Finished. A little long vertically.
It’s difficult to see the size even with the ruler, because I angled the photo to avoid reflections, but it’s about 5cm.
It was about 12cm before shrinking.
“Tailor”
Next is “Tailor”.
While the order is based on when I made them, I chose the characters based on how easily they could be cut out and fit onto the shrink plastic.
The reason the prototype was Adelheid was because, as the protagonist, I was most familiar with drawing her.
When not involved with clothing, “Tailor” tends to be timid and hunched over, often holding their hands in front of their chest, so that’s the general image for their pose.
I mixed black and green for their hair.
And used a light purple for the shadows on their face.
I forgot to take a photo before baking, so there’s no photo of that stage.
Finished.
It’s a little long vertically, but since they’re tall and lanky, it’s not very noticeable.
Ciel
Third is Ciel-san, who, for some reason, I feel like addressing with an honorific.
I think my line art is gradually improving.
Her face is slightly smaller, to make her look more mature.
The pose is based on the illustration where she’s holding Adelheid’s hands.
Since the only white marker I had wasn’t suitable for large areas, coloring Ciel, with her predominantly white outfit, was a struggle…
And since the line art was black, I had to use a brush pen for her maid uniform to differentiate the black from the black lines.
Heating it up.
I’m starting to get a feel for the timing… but I was worried it might stick to the baking paper.
Baking it for too short a time is a no-go, since it doesn’t shrink completely and curls up, but baking it for too long is also a problem…
Successfully shrunk.
Sonia
I’m glad to have Sonia for some color variety.
The pose is based on her first appearance. (Her hand is reversed due to the layout)
Like Ciel, the large areas of white were a challenge.
It was fun to color her brown hair and purple robe.
Her most distinctive feature is her glasses, which I drew first with a silver pen, before the line art.
However, while the opacity was good, the paint seemed a little… weak…? Some of it came off when I colored her skin, so I had to touch it up later.
While her canines were white in the original illustration, I made them the same color as her mouth for the chibi version. Simplifying the lines and colors is important.
Heating it up.
Finished.
Perhaps because I changed the baking paper, the surface is the smoothest.
But I only have a photo from before removing the excess plastic…
I trim the edges with a craft knife.
Adelheid
Adelheid again.
The image for her pose is “protecting her sister, even with her fists.”
…Isn’t she the only one whose style is so different?
The volume and lines of her hair made her the most difficult to draw, perhaps befitting a protagonist… or perhaps not.
While I simplified the lines considerably for the chibi version… the overlapping sections of her hair were still a challenge… This… meticulousness… is so Adel.
After six attempts, including the prototype, my lines are finally becoming more consistent.
Her hair color was actually the most challenging…
It’s difficult to depict “silver hair” with analog tools.
Since it’s “bluish silver hair,” I used light blue and blue.
And I didn’t have the right color for her jacket and skirt, so I layered blue and purple.
Like Sonia’s glasses, I colored the pocket watch chain silver first.
The crest… I left the gecko part uncolored… but it’s too small to see.
Fortunately, you can’t see the mistakes either.
Heating it up.
I had enough shrink plastic left for… two more failures.
――That thought kept me going.
Finished.
The left one is the finished product, the right one is the prototype.
…It’s a little… long horizontally?
I realized that I had cut it out following the shape of the shrink plastic, so perhaps I had oriented the plastic differently.
Keychains
There are various types of keychains, but I chose a set of five identical ones.
There were many that were… slightly different.
You don’t need a keychain for an acrylic stand (acrylic figure), but you do need a suitable stand.
Finished!
All five are done, so I arranged them like the original illustration.
Fun.
Something is fun.
…Is this… my long-dormant completionist urge…?
With keychains.
Also fun.
There’s a lot of empty space when they’re arranged horizontally…
And the keychains make it difficult to keep them upright for photos…
Reflection
Also known as a post-mortem.
I wanted to hand-draw these and utilize the transparency of the shrink plastic.
…However, since I ended up using materials that required sanding, the transparency isn’t ideal.
And while the colors weren’t as bad as I had feared after baking and shrinking, they weren’t perfect either.
Also, because of the transparency, the ‘ideal viewing angle’ is very limited.
And in sunlight, the shadows make them look darker.
So, while I did my best with the photos, I think they look better in person…
Incidentally, “Leticia’s Pocket Watch,” my previous production log, looked better in photos.
That was partly due to the location shoot.
Next time, I’ll consider printing, or perhaps something that emphasizes the hand-drawn aspect.
Ah, but it was fun to gather so much data…
Testing materials, testing techniques, gaining experience, evaluating tools… or deeming them unsuitable.
The culmination of crafting is that moment when you consider what to make next, based on the accumulated data—the experience.
I don’t know what I’ll make next…
But if reading this makes you interested in creating something with your own hands, whatever it may be, I would be very happy.
And if you’re a creator, I would be even happier if you could share some of your development process, experimental data, or research logs.
The next chapter will be the start of Volume 3.
